Download Accessorizing the Body: Habits of Being I by Cristina Giorcelli, Paula Rabinowitz, Manuela Fraire, Micol PDF

By Cristina Giorcelli, Paula Rabinowitz, Manuela Fraire, Micol Fontana

The first within the four-part sequence Habits of Being, charting the social, cultural, and political expression of garments as noticeable in the street and in museums, in motion pictures and literature, and in ads and magazines, this quantity encompasses a close-up concentrate on accessories—the shoe, the hat, the necklace—intimately attached to the body.
 
These essays, such a lot of that have seemed within the state of the art Italian sequence Abito e Identità, provide new theoretical and old takes at the function of garments, gown, and add-ons within the development of the fashionable topic. With contributions via top students in paintings historical past, semiotics, literary and movie reviews, heritage and model stories, and with extra writings via psychoanalysts, fabric artists, and type designers from Europe and the US, readers will come across a dizzying array of principles concerning the glossy physique and the ways that we costume it.
 
From views at the “model physique” to Sonia Delaunay’s designs, from Fascist-era Spanish women’s prescribed methods of dressing to Futurist vests, from Barbara Stanwyck’s anklet to Salvatore Ferragamo’s sandals, from a poet’s tiara to a worker’s cap, from the scarlet letter to the yellow celebrity: Accessorizing the Body imparts startling insights into how a lot the main modest accent may possibly reveal.
 
Contributors: Zsófia Bán, Eotvos Lorand U, Budapest; Martha Banta, U of California, la; Vittoria C. Caratozzolo, U of Rome “La Sapienza”; Paola Colaiacomo, U of Rome “La Sapienza”; Maria Damon, U of Minnesota; Giuliana Di Febo, U of Rome 3; Micol Fontana; Manuela Fraire; Becky Peterson, U of recent Mexico; Jeffrey C. Stewart, U of California, Santa Barbara; Vito Zagarrio, U of Rome 3; Franca Zoccoli.

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Like bodies, garments are ephemeral because their textile decays and because their fashion, like nature, is fleeting. But if clothes are devices concocted to preserve modesty, they also protect the body from harsh atmospheric elements, ornament it, ward oƒ bad luck, and modify its appearance. , women’s corsets) and, therefore, oppose the divine project by modeling new forms. In the Judeo-Christian tradition, the origin of clothes, prompted by the snake’s wiles, keeps manifesting itself. ”8 It is also true, however, that “clothing is our triumph over shame.

Germano Celant and Harold Koda, Giorgio Armani (New York: Guggenheim Museum Publications, 2000), 4–5. 7. Jacques Lacan, The Seminar of Jacques Lacan, Book XX, On Feminine Sexuality: The Limits of Love and Knowledge, 1972–1973, ed. Jacques-Alain Miller, trans. Bruce Fink (New York: W. W. Norton, 1998), 6. 1 5 / N O F R I L L S , N O - B O D Y, N O B O D Y 8. Sigmund Freud, “Fragment of an Analysis of a Case of Hysteria,” in Standard Edition, ed. and trans. Strachey, 7:76–77. 9. Mariuccia Mandelli, “Krizia e gli accessory,” in Abito e Identità: Ricerche di storia letteraria e culturale, ed.

Clothing is part of one’s personal idiom; thus it performs the function of self-narration that through sonic accessories—like voice inflections, standard formulas, and accents in language—makes the body expressive. Had there been no blank to fill (for the skin in and of itself does not indicate the human person), there would probably not be that system open to the Other constituted by clothing and accessories, a prosaic version of the essential tension between the basic and the superfluous, between centrality and marginality.

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