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There’s a little chapel down in the amphitheatre dating from the Byzantine era. The caretaker may or may not be there to collect tickets around at the Byzantine wall side of the amphitheatre. On the hilltop west of the amphitheatre stands the former palace of King Ahmet Zogu (rr Anastas Durrsaku), which is not open to the public as it is a military area. 5km walk to the top of the hill, but the views of the bay make it well worth the climb. A lighthouse (rr Anastas Durrsaku) stands on the next hill from where you can enjoy the royal views and check out the bunker constellation (see p46).

Com; rr Mihal Duri 2/1; s/d €50/70) Lyrically named and thankfully nothing like the song, the rooms here are clean with comfy beds, TVs, telephones and sparkling bathrooms. The rooms on the 5th floor have great views over the city from the balconies. Laundry service is free. Hotel Lugano (%/fax 222 023; rr Mihal Duri 34; r €50) The newly renovated rooms have heavy red drapes on the windows, good beds, and some, though not all, have kitsch marblecopy bathrooms that may give you a shock in the morning.

There are several other restaurants along the road to the Panorama. The very top of the mountain is a restricted zone with military communication aerials. The only downside is that there is no public transport to the mountain, so unless you have private transport you will have to get a taxi from the city; the ride takes about 45 minutes, and you can arrange to phone the driver to pick you up when you want to go back. The taxi ride shouldn’t set you back more than 700 lek each way. The road to Dajti starts on rr Qemal Stafa in Tirana.

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